Your First Week with a New Kitten: Day-by-Day Guide
Bringing home a new kitten? Our day-by-day guide covers everything from day one setup to week-one milestones. Includes supply checklist, feeding schedule, and bonding tips.
Senior Cat Product Reviewer & Feline Nutrition Specialist
Affiliate Disclosure: Meowing Goods is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. This helps us continue to provide free, expert-backed content. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Full disclosure.
Quick answer: Your first week with a new kitten should follow a gradual introduction approach. Set up a small, safe room on day one. Focus on basic needs (food, water, litter box) for the first two days, then slowly introduce handling, play, and room-by-room exploration through the rest of the week. Keep the environment calm, establish routines early, and schedule a vet visit within 48-72 hours.
Meowing Goods is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no extra cost to you. Learn more
You’ve made the decision, done the research, and now the day is finally here — you’re bringing home a kitten. Whether you’re a first-time cat owner or adding a new family member, that first week sets the tone for your entire relationship with your cat.
It’s exciting. It’s also a little nerve-wracking. Kittens are tiny, curious, and remarkably good at getting into things they shouldn’t. The first week is full of adjustments for both of you, and having a clear plan makes everything smoother.
This guide walks you through every day of your first week together, from the car ride home to your kitten’s first confident stroll around the house. We’ll cover the essential supplies you need, the feeding and litter schedule, bonding strategies, and the common mistakes to avoid.
Let’s start with what to have ready before your kitten arrives.
The Complete Kitten Supply Checklist
Don’t wait until you’re home with a tiny, meowing ball of fur to realize you forgot the litter box. Have these essentials set up and ready before pickup day.
Must-Have Supplies
- Kitten food — Wet and dry food specifically labeled for kittens or “all life stages” (AAFCO certified). See our full guide on choosing the right cat food.
- Food and water bowls — Shallow, wide bowls work best for kittens. Stainless steel or ceramic are easier to clean than plastic. Some kittens prefer a water fountain for drinking.
- Litter box — Start with a low-sided, uncovered box that a kitten can easily step into. Avoid covered boxes and high-entry boxes initially — accessibility is more important than odor control right now.
- Kitten-safe litter — Unscented, clumping clay litter is the standard recommendation. Avoid heavily scented litters and silica crystal litters for young kittens, as they may ingest litter while grooming.
- Cat carrier — Hard-sided carriers with a top-loading option are ideal. You’ll use this for the ride home and every vet visit going forward.
- Scratching post — Start building good scratching habits from day one. Offer both a vertical post and a horizontal cardboard scratcher to see which your kitten prefers.
- Bed or blanket — A cozy, soft bed or a fleece blanket in a quiet corner. Some kittens prefer enclosed beds that feel like a den.
- Toys — A wand toy for interactive play, a few small balls, and a soft kicker toy. A puzzle feeder like the Catit Senses Digger is great for mental stimulation once your kitten is settled.
- Kitten-safe space — One small room (bathroom, spare bedroom, or large walk-in closet) set up as a safe room. More on this below.
Nice-to-Have Supplies
- Grooming brush — Start early to build comfort with brushing. A soft bristle brush works for kittens. See our grooming tips guide for techniques.
- Nail clippers — Kitten-sized or small cat nail clippers. Getting your kitten used to nail trims now saves struggles later.
- Cat tree — Even a small one gives your kitten a sense of vertical territory.
- Enzymatic cleaner — For inevitable accidents outside the litter box. Regular cleaners won’t eliminate the scent, and your kitten may return to the spot.
- Night light — Kittens navigate better with a dim light in their safe room during the first few nights.
- Heating pad — A low-setting heating pad under a blanket can comfort a kitten who misses the warmth of their littermates. Use a pet-safe pad that auto-regulates temperature.
Day 1: The Big Arrival
The Car Ride Home
Place a soft towel or blanket in the carrier. If possible, bring a small cloth that smells like the kitten’s mother or littermates from the breeder or shelter — this familiar scent is comforting during a stressful transition.
Keep the carrier secured in the back seat with a seatbelt around it. Avoid placing it in the front seat (airbag risk) or in the trunk. Drive calmly. Your kitten will likely meow, and that’s normal — resist the urge to open the carrier while driving.
Keep the car cool and quiet. No blasting music. If it’s a long drive, you can place a small bowl of water in the carrier, but most kittens won’t eat or drink during the ride.
Arriving Home
Go directly to the safe room. Don’t let your kitten explore the whole house on day one — a full house is overwhelming for a 2-pound kitten. Their safe room should already be set up with:
- Litter box in one corner
- Food and water in the opposite corner (cats prefer distance between food and litter)
- A hiding spot (open carrier, cardboard box with a hole cut in the side, or an enclosed bed)
- A scratching post
- A few toys
Place the carrier on the floor, open the door, and walk away. Let the kitten come out on their own terms. Some kittens will bounce out immediately and start exploring. Others will stay in the carrier for hours. Both responses are completely normal.
Day 1 Goals
- Set up safe room before kitten arrives
- Transport kitten home safely in carrier
- Let kitten explore safe room at their own pace
- Show kitten the litter box location (place them gently in it once — they’ll figure it out)
- Offer food and fresh water
- Sit quietly in the room for 20-30 minutes — read, scroll your phone, just be present
- Don’t force handling or cuddling
What to expect: Your kitten may not eat much, may hide, and may cry at night. This is normal first-day behavior. They’ve just left everything familiar — their mother, littermates, and the only home they’ve known.
Day 2: Getting Acquainted
By day two, most kittens start showing interest in their surroundings and the strange new human who keeps showing up with food.
Building Trust
Spend time in the safe room, but let the kitten initiate contact. Sit on the floor (you’re less intimidating at their level) and:
- Talk softly so they learn your voice
- Offer your hand for sniffing, fingers curled in — don’t reach over their head
- If they approach, let them rub against you before you start petting
- Pet gently along the cheeks and chin first — most cats prefer this to being petted on top of the head
- Keep sessions short: 5-10 minutes of interaction, then give them space
Feeding Routine
Establish a consistent feeding schedule starting today:
For kittens 8-12 weeks:
- 7:00 AM — Breakfast (wet food)
- 12:00 PM — Lunch (wet food or dry)
- 5:00 PM — Dinner (wet food)
- 9:00 PM — Evening snack (small portion of dry food)
For kittens 3-6 months:
- 7:00 AM — Breakfast (wet food)
- 1:00 PM — Lunch (wet or dry)
- 7:00 PM — Dinner (wet food)
Always have fresh water available. Measure portions according to the food package guidelines for your kitten’s current weight. Adjust as they grow — you’ll go through food fast.
Litter Box Check
Most kittens instinctively use the litter box. If your kitten hasn’t used it yet by the end of day two:
- Place them gently in the box after meals and after naps (peak times for elimination)
- Gently take their front paw and make a digging motion in the litter
- Never punish accidents — clean them up with enzymatic cleaner and move on
For a complete step-by-step approach, see our kitten litter training guide.
Day 2 Goals
- Establish a feeding schedule with measured portions
- Spend 2-3 short sessions sitting in the safe room
- Confirm litter box usage (at least once)
- Begin talking and offering your hand for sniffing
- Check food and water freshness twice
Day 3: First Vet Visit
Schedule your first veterinary appointment for day two or three if possible. This is important even if your kitten seems perfectly healthy.
What Happens at the First Vet Visit
- Physical exam — Head-to-tail check of eyes, ears, mouth, heart, lungs, abdomen, skin, and coat
- Parasite check — Fecal test for intestinal worms and visual check for fleas and ear mites
- Vaccination plan — Your vet will start or continue the FVRCP series (the core kitten vaccine) and schedule the rabies vaccine
- Deworming — Most kittens need at least one round of deworming medication
- Microchip discussion — If your kitten isn’t already microchipped, this is a good time to do it
- Spay/neuter timeline — Usually scheduled for 4-6 months of age
What to bring:
- Any health records from the breeder or shelter
- A stool sample (from the litter box) in a sealed plastic bag
- Your list of questions (write them down — it’s easy to forget in the moment)
- The kitten in their carrier with a familiar blanket
Day 3 Goals
- Complete first veterinary examination
- Begin vaccination and deworming schedule
- Ask your vet about feeding, flea prevention, and spay/neuter timing
- Continue safe room routine with feeding and gentle interaction
- Introduce a short play session (2-3 minutes) with a wand toy
Day 4: Gentle Handling and Play
By day four, your kitten should be noticeably more comfortable. They may greet you at the door, play openly, and start purring during petting. Now it’s time to introduce gentle handling.
Getting Your Kitten Used to Being Handled
This is an investment in your future sanity. A kitten who learns to tolerate handling now will be much easier to groom, medicate, and transport as an adult cat.
Practice these handling exercises in short, positive sessions (1-2 minutes at a time):
- Paw touches — Gently hold each paw and press the pad to extend the claws. Reward with a treat. This prepares them for nail trims.
- Ear peeks — Gently fold back the ear flap and look inside. Reward. This makes ear cleaning easier later.
- Mouth checks — Lift the lip briefly to look at teeth and gums. Reward. This supports future dental care.
- Belly exposure — If your kitten rolls over willingly, gently touch the belly. If they don’t like it, respect that boundary — not all cats tolerate belly touches.
- Brushing introduction — Run a soft brush along their back for a few strokes. Treat. Build up gradually. Our grooming tips guide has more detail on this.
Always pair handling with treats and stop before the kitten gets squirmy or annoyed. End on a positive note. Over the next few months, continue these exercises until they become routine.
First Real Play Session
Now that your kitten is feeling at home, start structured play. Use a wand toy and follow the natural hunting sequence:
- Stalk — Move the toy slowly, peeking it around a corner
- Chase — Speed up with erratic movements
- Pounce — Let the kitten leap on the toy
- Catch — Let them grab and bunny-kick it
- Eat — End the session with a small meal or treats
Play sessions for kittens should be short but frequent — 5-10 minutes, three or four times a day. Kittens have explosive energy followed by sudden crashes. Don’t overstimulate them.
Day 4 Goals
- Practice gentle handling (paws, ears, mouth) with treat rewards
- Have 2-3 short play sessions with a wand toy
- Introduce a soft brush for the first time
- Observe litter box habits and eating patterns
- Begin introducing your kitten to household sounds (TV, vacuum from a distance, kitchen noises) at low volume
Day 5: Expanding Territory
If your kitten is confidently eating, using the litter box, and interacting with you in the safe room, it’s time to slowly expand their territory.
The Gradual Room Introduction
- Open the safe room door and let the kitten decide when to venture out
- Start with one adjacent room — close doors to the rest of the house
- Stay nearby as they explore, but don’t hover
- Let them retreat to the safe room whenever they want — leave that door open
- Make sure there’s a litter box accessible in or near the new area (use the n+1 rule: one litter box per cat, plus one extra)
Before opening any new room, do a quick safety audit. Remove toxic plants, secure electrical cords, check for small swallowable objects, and close toilet lids. For a comprehensive room-by-room checklist, read our cat-proofing your home guide.
Day 5 Goals
- Open the safe room door for supervised exploration of one new room
- Keep the safe room set up and accessible as a retreat
- Place a second litter box in or near the newly accessible area
- Continue feeding schedule and play sessions
- Let the kitten set the pace — don’t carry them into new areas
Day 6: Socialization and Routine
By day six, your kitten is likely becoming more confident and playful. This is a great time to focus on socialization — the process of exposing your kitten to new people, sounds, textures, and experiences in a positive way.
Socialization Priorities (8-14 Weeks Is the Critical Window)
The socialization window for kittens is roughly 2-7 weeks at its most critical, extending to about 14 weeks. After this period, cats become much less receptive to new experiences. Everything you expose your kitten to now — in a positive, non-threatening way — builds their confidence for life.
People: Invite one or two calm friends or family members to sit on the floor and offer treats. Don’t pass the kitten around from person to person — let the kitten approach visitors on their own.
Sounds: Play household sounds at low volume — vacuum cleaner, blender, doorbell, TV, music. Pair the sounds with treats or play. Gradually increase volume over multiple sessions.
Surfaces and textures: Let your kitten walk on different surfaces — tile, carpet, hardwood, a bath mat, a crinkly paper bag. Novel textures build confidence and reduce fear later.
Handling by different people: If safe, controlled friends or family can practice the gentle handling exercises you’ve been doing — touching paws, looking at ears. The more people your kitten trusts for handling, the easier vet visits and grooming will be.
Establishing Long-Term Routines
Cats thrive on routine. By day six, you should have consistent patterns for:
- Meal times — Same times every day
- Play sessions — Morning and evening interactive play
- Quiet time — Designated nap periods (kittens need 18-20 hours of sleep per day)
- Bonding time — Regular petting and lap sessions in the evening
Day 6 Goals
- Introduce your kitten to one new person (calm, seated, with treats)
- Practice sound desensitization at low volume
- Expand territory to a second new room (if kitten is ready)
- Maintain consistent feeding and play routines
- Practice handling exercises with treats
Day 7: The One-Week Milestone
Congratulations — you’ve made it through your first week as a kitten parent. By day seven, you should start seeing the personality of the cat your kitten will become: playful or mellow, cuddly or independent, bold or cautious.
One-Week Assessment
Take stock of where things stand:
Healthy signs:
- Eating consistently at scheduled mealtimes
- Using the litter box reliably
- Gaining weight (kittens should gain about 1 pound per month)
- Bright, clear eyes and clean ears
- Active play periods followed by healthy naps
- Approaching you for attention and showing signs of bonding (purring, head-butting, kneading)
Watch for these warning signs (call your vet):
- Not eating for more than 24 hours
- Diarrhea lasting more than one day
- Sneezing, runny nose, or watery eyes (upper respiratory infection)
- Lethargy or unwillingness to play
- Straining in the litter box
- Vomiting more than once
Looking Ahead: Week 2 and Beyond
Your first week focused on the basics — safety, trust, and routine. Here’s what to work on in the coming weeks:
Weeks 2-4:
- Continue expanding territory room by room until the kitten has access to the full (cat-proofed) home
- Begin short clicker training sessions to build mental stimulation
- Introduce a puzzle feeder like the Catit Senses Digger for mealtime enrichment
- Start regular brushing and nail-trimming practice
- Complete remaining kitten vaccination series on schedule
Months 2-4:
- Transition from four meals to three meals per day (at 3 months)
- Consider harness introduction if you plan on outdoor adventures
- Ramp up interactive play as your kitten’s energy and coordination increase
- If planning to add a second cat, begin thinking about introduction strategy
Months 4-6:
- Schedule spay or neuter surgery (typically recommended at 4-6 months)
- Transition from three meals to two meals per day (at 6 months)
- Begin transitioning from kitten food to adult food gradually (follow your vet’s timeline — some recommend staying on kitten food until 12 months)
- Establish annual wellness exam routine
Day 7 Goals
- Do a one-week health and behavior assessment
- Celebrate your progress — bonding takes time, and you’re doing great
- Plan upcoming vet appointments (next vaccination booster)
- Continue building routines that will become lifelong habits
- Start thinking about enrichment expansion — toys, cat trees, window perches
Common First-Week Mistakes to Avoid
Even well-prepared kitten parents make these mistakes. Here’s what to watch for:
-
Giving too much freedom too fast. A whole house is overwhelming for a kitten. Start with one room and expand gradually.
-
Skipping the vet visit. Even “healthy” kittens can have parasites, early respiratory infections, or congenital issues. The first vet visit is non-negotiable.
-
Forcing interaction. If your kitten is hiding, don’t drag them out for cuddles. Let them come to you. Patience in week one builds a lifetime of trust.
-
Free-feeding unlimited dry food. Measured meals prevent obesity and help you monitor appetite (a key health indicator). If your kitten suddenly stops eating, you need to know immediately.
-
Punishing accidents. If your kitten has an accident outside the litter box, clean it with enzymatic cleaner and review litter box placement and accessibility. Punishment creates fear, not learning.
-
Introducing to other pets too quickly. Keep new kittens separated from resident pets for at least a week, with scent-swapping before any face-to-face meetings.
-
Skipping kitten-proofing. That exposed electrical cord, open toilet, or lily on the table can turn your joyful first week into an emergency vet visit. Read our complete cat-proofing guide before bringing your kitten home.
-
Neglecting socialization. The 2-14 week socialization window closes fast. Expose your kitten to different people, gentle handling, and household sounds now — it shapes their personality for life.
Key Takeaways
- Prepare the safe room before pickup day. Your kitten needs a small, secure starting area with all essentials ready.
- Let your kitten set the pace. Some kittens are adventurous on day one; others need three days of hiding before they feel safe. Both are normal.
- Schedule a vet visit within 48-72 hours. First exam, vaccinations, parasite check, and deworming are essential.
- Establish feeding routines immediately. Four meals per day for young kittens, measured portions, AAFCO-compliant kitten food.
- Practice gentle handling daily. Paw touches, ear peeks, brushing, and mouth checks — paired with treats — prepare your kitten for a lifetime of easy grooming and vet care.
- Expand territory gradually. One room at a time, cat-proofed and supervised, with a retreat available.
- Socialize during the critical window. New people, sounds, textures, and experiences — always positive, never forced.
- Be patient with yourself. The first week is an adjustment for everyone. Your kitten won’t be perfectly behaved on day seven, and that’s completely fine.
Welcome to cat parenthood. It only gets better from here.
Frequently Asked Questions
How old should a kitten be before bringing them home?
Kittens should be at least 8 weeks old before being separated from their mother and littermates, though 10-12 weeks is ideal. Before 8 weeks, kittens are still nursing, learning critical social skills from their mother and siblings (bite inhibition, play behavior, grooming habits), and developing their immune system through maternal antibodies. Kittens taken away too early are more likely to develop behavioral problems like aggression, fearfulness, and excessive biting. Reputable breeders typically keep kittens until 12-14 weeks. If you’re adopting from a shelter, the kitten should be fully weaned and eating solid food independently.
Should I let my new kitten sleep in my bed?
This is a personal choice, but most experts recommend NOT allowing it during the first few weeks. New kittens are tiny and can be accidentally rolled on or smothered during sleep. They also need to learn where their litter box is and develop the habit of using it consistently — a kitten loose in a bedroom at night may have accidents. Instead, set your kitten up in their safe room at night with their bed, litter box, and water. Once they’re larger (around 4-5 months), litter-trained, and comfortable in your home, you can start allowing bed access if you choose. Many cat owners eventually love co-sleeping with their cats.
How often should I feed a new kitten?
Kittens have small stomachs and high energy needs, so they need frequent meals. Feed kittens 8-12 weeks old four times per day. From 3-6 months, reduce to three meals per day. After 6 months, twice-daily feeding is usually sufficient. Use kitten-specific food (labeled for “growth” or “all life stages” per AAFCO guidelines) as it contains higher protein and fat than adult food. Follow the feeding guidelines on the food package based on your kitten’s current weight, and adjust as they grow. Always have fresh water available. See our complete guide on choosing the right cat food.
When should I take my new kitten to the vet?
Schedule your first veterinary visit within 48-72 hours of bringing your kitten home — ideally before or shortly after pickup. This initial exam establishes a health baseline and checks for common kitten issues like upper respiratory infections, ear mites, intestinal parasites, and congenital defects. Your vet will also start or continue the vaccination schedule (FVRCP and rabies are core vaccines) and discuss deworming, flea prevention, and the timeline for spaying or neutering (typically around 4-6 months). Bring any health records from the shelter or breeder to this appointment.
How do I kitten-proof my home?
Kitten-proofing is similar to baby-proofing but with extra attention to climbing hazards and tiny spaces. Remove all toxic plants (especially lilies, which are fatal to cats). Secure electrical cords in cable covers. Lock away cleaning products, medications, and small objects that could be swallowed (hair ties, rubber bands, coins, buttons). Close toilet lids, block access behind major appliances (refrigerators, washers, dryers), and check that window screens are secure. Block any gaps where a kitten could squeeze and become trapped. For a complete room-by-room guide, check out our article on cat-proofing your home.
Is it normal for my new kitten to hide?
Yes, completely normal. Most kittens hide when they first arrive in a new environment — it’s a natural survival instinct, not a sign that something is wrong. Some kittens will explore within a few hours, while shyer kittens may hide for 2-3 days. Don’t force interaction. Instead, sit quietly in the room, read a book or work on your phone, and let the kitten approach you on their terms. Place food and water near (but not right next to) their hiding spot. Talk to them softly so they get used to your voice. Most kittens come around within 3-5 days once they realize the environment is safe and you’re the source of food and comfort.
What vaccinations does my kitten need?
Core vaccinations recommended by the AVMA for all kittens include FVRCP (feline viral rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, panleukopenia) — given as a series starting at 6-8 weeks and repeated every 3-4 weeks until 16-20 weeks old — and rabies, typically given at 12-16 weeks depending on local laws. Non-core vaccines like FeLV (feline leukemia virus) are recommended for kittens with outdoor access or exposure to other cats. Your vet will create a vaccination schedule based on your kitten’s age, health status, and lifestyle risk factors.
How do I introduce my new kitten to other pets?
Slow and gradual introductions are essential — never put a new kitten face-to-face with existing pets on day one. Start by keeping the kitten in their own room for at least 5-7 days. Swap bedding between the new kitten and existing pets so they can get used to each other’s scent. After a few days of scent swapping, allow them to sniff under the door. Then try visual introductions through a baby gate or cracked door. Only proceed to supervised face-to-face meetings once both animals seem calm during visual contact. The entire process can take 2-4 weeks. Rushing introductions is the number one reason pet introductions fail.
Sources
Frequently Asked Questions
Sources & References
Senior Cat Product Reviewer & Feline Nutrition Specialist
Sarah has spent over 12 years testing and reviewing cat products — from premium kibble to the latest interactive toys. She holds a certification in feline nutrition and is an associate member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC). Sarah lives in Austin, Texas, with her three cats: Biscuit (a tabby with opinions about everything), Mochi (a Siamese who demands only the best), and Clementine (a rescue who taught her the meaning of patience). When she isn't unboxing the latest cat gadget, you'll find her writing about evidence-based nutrition, helping cat parents decode ingredient labels, and campaigning for better transparency in the pet food industry.